Dining around the Universe
I discovered epic pizza and other yummy stuff to savor at Orlando’s new park
Universal Epic Universe, the new gate that recently opened in Orlando, boasts wildly innovative dark rides, a freaky-good coaster, superb shows, and deeply immersive themeing, among other notable attributes. Clearly, the Universal folks have lavished a lot of care and effort on their next-generation theme park. Likewise, the company’s culinary team has developed an ambitious collection of new eateries and dishes. Once a dicey proposition, dining has evolved considerably throughout parkdom. We’ve come a long way from crappy chicken tenders and greasy burgers (although there’s still plenty of both on midways out there). Epic Universe’s elevated eats reflects the trend with a number of items that are inventive, tasty, and help advance the storytelling.
I had an opportunity to sample a lot of fare during my recent visits. Keep in mind that the new park is finding its groove and will likely be testing and adjusting its menus. Let’s run down some of the highlights (and a couple of not-so-highlights), starting with the best pizza I’ve ever tasted at a theme park.
The Giant Mushroom at Pizza Moon in Celestial Park
I’m not going to lie. I am a pizza snob. I am very discerning about the Italian pies and have a passion for slices that runs nearly as deep as my theme park fixation. Pizza at theme parks? Talk about a dicey proposition. It’s almost always terrible or mediocre at best, and typically costs a small fortune. Sorry Via Napoli Ristorante e Pizzeria at Epcot; I know you have your fans, but your crazy-expensive pizzas just don’t do it for me.
Pizza Moon had me swooning however. The delizioso Neapolitan pies have perfectly charred crusts with a nice bite and a slightly smoky taste to them that put me in a New York state of mind. And, mmm, the fancy shmancy toppings. The Giant Mushroom (pictured above) featured funky ‘shrooms, a pungent roasted garlic bechamel, and cheese that had a pleasing snap to it that was artfully drizzled with a lovely (and scrumptious) truffle aioli. The Pizza Lunare, made with ube yam-infused flour, which, improbably, turns the crust purple, was quite a sight. But the ricotta, garlic confit, and small bites of pancetta made it quite tasty as well. And get this: All of the pies clock in under $20. (Granted, they are 12-inch and designed to serve two.)
As for the quick-service restaurant’s vibe, the moon hit my eye like a big pizza pie; that’s amore. The lunar decor, which includes oversized, cartoony cheese blocks, animated artifacts hanging from the ceiling, and a wood-fired oven made to look like a retro spaceship that crash landed on the moon, is striking. I can’t wait to return and try more of the pizzas.
Smoked Brisket at The Oak & Star Tavern in Celestial Park
It’s not quite up there with pizza, but man, I love good BBQ. The first time I visited The Oak and Star Tavern, I was blown away by its smoked brisket. So tender, it essentially collapsed the moment my fork touched it. The meat was simultaneously juicy and boasted a rugged bark–the hallmarks of great low-and-slow pit mastery. And oh, the taste. Tangy with a hint of sweetness, it hit a heavenly flavor profile. It wasn’t just the best BBQ I’ve ever had at a theme park, it was among the best BBQ, period.
Then I returned a few weeks later to the quick service eatery. Hoping for another hit of brisket bravado, I was disappointed to find dry meat that was a bit stringy and almost bland. Consistency is key for high-volume restaurants at parks. It would seem the kitchen staff is still finding its way at the new park. I know The Oak and Star is capable of sublime BBQ; here’s hoping the crew will hit their marks on a regular basis. The brisket can be ordered as part of a platter or as a sandwich. Whatever you get, consider supplementing it with mango bread, burnt ends baked beans, and smoked harissa cauliflower (which delivers some nice heat).
Astrid’s Shrimp Bowl at Spit Fyre Grill in How to Train Your Dragon – Isle of Berk
If there’s one thing you should know about Isle of Berk, it’s that it has dragons. Lots and lots of dragons. The conceit at the Spit Fyre Grill is that there are dragon chefs at work in the kitchen flame broiling the meats. Rather than opting for the chicken or steak, I went for a shrimp bowl. It featured four decent-sized prawns that were nicely seared (thanks dragon chef!) and coated in a mildly sweet raspberry sauce that permeated the bed of sticky rice on which it was served. The grilled corn and, especially, the charred broccolini were nice adjuncts. The “bowl” was actually a rectangular cardboard container–nothing fancy at this quick-service place. The portion wasn’t exactly Viking-sized. Mac and cheese cones, which have become something of a social media sensation. are also on the menu.
Kai-Ming’s Mapu Tofu at The Blue Dragon Pan-Asian Restaurant in Celestial Park
Oddly, The Blue Dragon is not in Isle of Berk. Apparently Celestial Park has fire-breathing creatures as well. The full-service restaurant is located at the far end of the land in front of the Helios Grand Hotel. The nicely appointed, full-service establishment offers dishes that span Asia’s cultural spectrum, including the Sichuan-inspired Mapu Tofu that I sampled. In addition to tofu, the delectable meatless dish features vegan ground pork that is surprisingly reminiscent in taste and texture of its non-vegan counterpart. The chili crisp sauce adds a nice zip to the offering.
King Oyster Mushroom Ceviche at Atlantic in Celestial Park
Speaking of plant-based ingredients that mimic non-vegetarian items, the mushrooms and the root vegetable, jicama, in the ceviche appetizer at Atlantic, Epic Universe’s other full-service dining spot, certainly fooled me into thinking I was eating seafood. Maybe the swanky restaurant, with its nautical theme, helped sell the illusion. Seasoned with a bit of cilantro, a hint of citrus, and a dash of heat, it melds together well. The house-made potato chips are a nice touch.
Butterbeer Crepe at Café L’air De La Sirène in The Wizarding World of Harry Potter – Ministry of Magic
Of course, Universal had to conjure another butterbeer creation for its new park. The delicate dessert features a crepe filled with a blend of Bavarian and butterbeer cream that’s crowned with sliced strawberries, whipped cream, and a drizzle of butterbeer foam. The signature Wizarding World flavor is not cloyingly sweet. In fact, it’s subtle, and that’s a good thing. I’m going to stick with butterbeer soft serve, available at Florean Fortescue’s Ice-Cream Parlour at Dragon Alley in Universal Studios Florida, as my favorite butterbeer concoction. But the crepe is quite good.
DK Crush Float Tropical Banana Flavor at The Bubbly Barrel in Super Nintendo World
I really wanted to like this culinary ode to Donkey Kong. I mean, it’s got banana pineapple soft serve (which I didn’t even know is a thing), and it can be ordered with a souvenir mug that looks like a barrel from the iconic video game. It’s served in a waffle cone that’s floating in pineapple soda, and it’s sprinkled with caramel popcorn and toffee bits. It all sounds great, but the whole shebang is not greater than the sum of its parts. And the parts aren’t even all that great. The float seems designed more for Instagram posts than for enjoying in the real world–or, in this case, Super Nintendo World.
Warm Hearted Cinnamon Bites at De Lacey's Cottage in Dark Universe
When Universal revealed that this delicacy would be offered at Epic Universe, some park fans speculated that it could be the company’s answer to cinnamon bread, the addictive treat available at Silver Dollar City and Dollywood. Nope. Not even close. Instead of the doughy, gooey, bread-like deliciousness that is cinnamon bread, these overly sweet, dry cakes are more like Dunkin’ donut holes.
Have you tried any of these items at Epic Universe? Do you have a hankering for any of them?
Loved the article, Arthur! If you ever tire of writing about roller coasters and theme parks, you would make an outstanding food critic! Keep up the terrific reviews!
Perfect timing on posting this article - we’ll be making our Epic trek in less that two weeks, and are just as excited about the culinary offerings as we are the rides and attractions! Glad we have your recommendations to steer us clear of some of the duds.